Let the travel recaps continue!
Day Three (Tuesday)
Tuesday morning at our apartment wasn’t the high point of our trip. We had a big surprise in store for the kids, but we didn’t want to spoil it. The night before we told them we’d need to get up early, though we kept the reason a secret (just in case they complained). We got them up by 7:30 am, and neither of them was thrilled, with one child being especially unimpressed. (I will leave said child’s identity up to the reader’s own deductive reasoning). John and I had packed extra sandwiches the night before, so we ate those on the train instead of breakfast.
When we were nearing the literal end of the train route, the kids became more and more curious about where we could be going. We told them that we had wanted them to see more of the French countryside (technically true) and we were taking them for a picnic (also true). It was Belle who first spotted the tiny mouse silhouette next to the station name. And that’s how, about five minutes before any member of our family crossed the threshold of a Disney park for the first time, our children learned they were going to Disneyland Paris.
The day was everything we hoped for and more. Despite the cold front that rolled in the night before, we bundled up and had a blast. I wore finger gloves and a headband, but the weather didn’t dampen the kids’ excitement. Disneyland Paris is smaller than some other Disney parks, but it was perfect for our one-day adventure. Here’s a quick rundown:
- Hyperspace Mountain. Everyone’s favourite! A good chunk of the ride is in the pitch dark which I found surprisingly comforting (if I’m going to die while hurtling through the air at what feels like unsafe speeds, at least I won’t see it coming). Belle did this ride four times and was officially hooked. She’s sitting next to me on the airplane as I type this and when I asked her what I should say, she responded “Say I liked the ride.” Friends, this is underselling her response by a magnitude of 1,000. We have a new rollercoaster daredevil in the family (Indy and I are fairly timid, but Belle is following in John’s adventurous footsteps).
- Pirates of the Caribbean. A lot of fun, though we got soaked the second time.
- Phantom Manor: Enjoyed by all.
- Star Tours: A hit—we did it twice.
- Buzz Lightyear’s Laser Blast: I crushed it. Indy liked it, I’d rate it Meh.
- Autopia: Indy has a heavy foot.
- Peter Pan’s Flight. NOT worth the hour-long wait.
- It’s a Small World After All. I am here to confirm it is possible to listen to the same song fifteen times in a row and not lose your mind!
We packed our own food. Some families even made sandwiches in line (bringing out complete loaves of bread and cheese and meat), which was hilarious. We caved for a few overpriced hot dogs but avoided the costly Disney merchandise; my eyes were watering when I saw the prices.
We left before the fireworks, which meant we had an almost-empty train on the way back. The kids still couldn’t believe they had just spent a day at Disney.
I had originally been planning for our main day trip to involve Versailles, but John and I agreed that this might be the only time in our lives we’ll all end up at Disney. The park is a little over 30 minutes from the heart of Paris, and I knew the kids would have more fun at Disney than a massive palace and sprawling gardens.
Me too.
Day Four (Wednesday)
*We went to the Catacombs on Day 4 of our trip. I do have pictures of that experience posted below and understand they could be upsetting for some people to view and wanted to provide advance notice.
After so rudely waking the kids on Tuesday (TO GO TO DISNEY, we hastened to remind them), we all slept in – late – on Wednesday. It was almost noon when we left the apartment. We kept our priorities in check and made a pit stop for morning pastries. Le Parisienne near Châtelet–Les Halles was amazing; they have sandwiches on a soft brioche bread that was delicious, and their apricot tarte…well my mouth is watering as I write this sentence.
We kicked off our sightseeing with a visit to Nicolas Flamel’s house at 51 Rue de Montmorency. Yes, the real Nicolas Flamel had a house here, and it happens to be the oldest in Paris, built in 1407. Belle was thrilled – she’s a huge fan of the Harry Potter books.
We wandered to Le Défenseur du Temps, an avant-garde automaton clock on a side street. It’s worth visiting on the hour to see the soldier fight creatures. Sadly, we missed the show (I didn’t actually realize it was a functional clock!) but watched a YouTube video instead.
We couldn’t miss a stop at Flying Tiger (Tee-ah) on Rue Rambuteau. We’ve managed to visit one of these novelty stores in every European country we’ve gone to as a family and it never fails to entertain.
After some random wandering past Centre Pompidou (didn’t go in) and Stravinsky Fountain (meh), we looked at some street art, wandered into a church we happened upon, and sat at the base of Tour Saint-Jacques while Indy enjoyed a sweet crepe.
Eventually we ended up at 59 Rue de Rivoli, a seven-floor art coop/work studio/squatter’s residence that reminds me of a miniaturized Christiania in Denmark. It was fascinating (and free!); the kids gaped at some of the murals and then Indy occupied himself by counting the number of stairs (172, I think?).
Mostly we were looking for interesting ways to fill the time until…the Catacombs.
The Catacombs were one of the most memorable experiences of our trip. In the late 1700s, Paris had two big problems: they were running out of space to bury the dead, and the quarries beneath the city were collapsing. The solution? Move millions of bodies into the tunnels and reinforce the infrastructure. Today, visitors can explore about 1.5 km of the tunnels, which house the remains of around 6 million people.
It was both eerie and thought-provoking. It’s a sobering reminder that death comes for all of us and is the great equalizer. One of King Louis XVI sisters – Elisabeth, spelled with an “s” ironically enough – and Robespierre are two of millions. Their status no longer has any meaning. From dust they came and to dust they shall return…
There was an excellent English audio guide included in adult ticket prices, with clearly marked listening stations. A few other notes:
- You can only book tickets 7 days in advance.
- Tickets are €31 for adults (audioguide included); €12 for under-17s (with optional audioguides for an additional €5). We shared audioguides with the kids and happily saved the €10.
- It is cold, dark, and damp. Dress accordingly!!
- This is not an accessible place to visit; no strollers are allowed and you have to walk down a winding staircase 20 meters below ground level…and then back up again. Any backpacks have to be worn front-facing, and flash photography is prohibited.
Since we had a relatively open evening, we decided to coordinate with John’s colleague living in Paris. While waiting for her to arrive, we stopped at a café for a break from the cold, savouring delicious hot chocolates and a surprise bowl of freshly prepared (free!) popcorn. Delightful.
We spent an hour trying to find a restaurant (the one we planned to visit to ended up being booked for a private event – something we only discovered upon arrival). We settled on a forgettable restaurant, but it was fun to meet up and very handy to have someone who could communicate so fluently in French!
Then it was back to the apartment – on a nearly empty subway! – and to bed.
Distance Walked (Days 3-4): 26.14 km | 36,892 steps | 47 flights
Your turn. Have you ever visited a landmark made famous by a book or movie? What would you want written on your tombstone? Have you ever visited a Disney park?
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We went to the Garden of the God’s when visiting Colorado. It’s mentioned in Percy Jackson- Battle of the Labyrinth- and we needed something.to do in a morning.
I think I’d pick something from Wisdom 7:7-11. But that could change.
I went to Disney World in my youth, back when they had tickets ( E ticket for the most desirable ride!) and I don’t think Space Mountain was built yet ( maybe it had recently opened?) I would not have gone on it. My kids have only gone there if they went as a band trip or as an adult. ( My one daughter and her husband love theme parks.)
I don’t really feel the need to ever go to Disney again, but Belle DEFINITELY wants to go to an amusement park ASAP to get back on a rollercoaster. There’s a huge park outside of Toronto (Canada’s Wonderland) so she has her sights set on that next…
This looks like such a fun day! What a surprise for your kids!
I have been to Disney World in Florida and saw The Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom, and Epcot. I absolutely loved Epcot. Their fireworks show was the most amazing thing I’ve ever seen. If I ever go back, I’ll just see Epcot and forget the others.
I also went to Tokyo Disneyland when I visited my Japanese friend. It was super fun, but not the highlight of that trip, where there were so many wonderful things to see.
I’ve heard good things about Epcot! I’m so glad you enjoyed the firework show. I felt a bit silly leaving before the fireworks but since we didn’t have a hotel in the area and knew the train would be BUSY after the fireworks, I’m glad we made the decision we did. Another time? (Also, it was getting very chilly after dark.)
From Disneyland to the catacombs!!! What a juxtaposition.
DISNEYYYYY! How fun is that! Years ago Rob’s colleague was in Disneyland and while she was on It’s A Small World, it broke. So she was stuck there for 45 minutes, and the music KEPT PLAYING. I think she did lose her mind! I think it was 2016 when we were at Universal Florida and just to be silly we went on the Dr Seuss ride (the boys were too old for it, but we all thought it would be funny). It was a Cat in the Hat ride and it broke, and our couch kept spinning around while this really bad music kept playing. Lol, good times.
It really was about as far apart as one could imagine, but equally memorable.
Okay, I think I WOULD lose my mind if I was stuck inside It’s A Small World. Thankfully nothing broke while we were there (a few rides were out of service, but at least it didn’t happen mid-ride for us).
Oh my gosh- I had a huge smile on my face when the Disney surprise was revealed. HOW FUN!!!!! Disney Paris sounds better than Disneyworld to me- I like a smaller park. And then, the polar opposite experience, the catacombs. That looks creepy… and amazing. As usual, your photos are incredible. I love all the street art. Can’t wait for the next installment!
It was a magical moment I don’t think anyone will forget. I’m SO glad we were able to keep it a surprise.
Disneyland Paris is quite small and definitely doable in a single day. It was perfect for our family.
Love the surprise Disney trip. We have surprised our kids with a Disney visit. We have only ever done Disney World in Orlando. When I took the 4 OG youngest when Curly was dancing there, I packed a small cooler. Got in line early and the kids at cereal with milk in paper bowls while we waited. People near us were taking photos of our breakfast picnic. Also brought in lunch.
I was in Paris briefly while studying abroad. But was so tired of traveling, I looked at stuff and did not go inside the museums, etc. I needed that refresher on what the catacombs are. Wow. I would like to be back someday and take time to see things and enjoy it.
I was so glad that we were allowed to bring in food! I guess they won’t allow large coolers (fair enough), but we brought drinks and pre-made sandwiches and some snack items and it also meant we could spend more time in line for rides and less time off ordering food. Since we only had the one day on site, it was great to be efficient.
I feel like Paris is a city that needs to be visited in layers. We did a lot of things this trip we didn’t on our 2019 trip (sans kids), and I still have another layer of Paris I want to explore. I hope you get back soon and I’m so glad Mini enjoyed her time there.
SO FUN! Also, your kids! Are you and John’s opposite twins, and I love it so much. Indy looks soooooo much like you and Belle is her dad’s exact mini. Adorable!
I swear Belle was like 2 minutes old when people first said she was the spitting image of her father. They are also the most alike in personality. Indy is definitely more like me (sensitive, likes to be alone), though I’ll admit I never can see much of my facial features in his so it makes me happy to hear you can see it <3
Wow, talk about two rather full days of walking, food and a lot of fun by the sounds of it. Not sure about Disney Paris, mostly because these places always seem to be over priced, but it sure looked like fun for the entire family.
The last time I was in Paris was mostly a bucket list thing for me, I wanted to go to the tennis. So we booked two days for the French Open and had a great time wandering around the area around Roland Garros before and after. It’s amazing what you find hidden down all these little streets.
As for my tombstone? Hmm … “She tried everything,” might be apt. ☺️
Aside from the food, I was pretty impressed by how “inexpensive” (obviously all relative) the tickets were. Our biggest issue with prices in Paris was the fact the CAD is not very strong again the euro.
We didn’t make it out to Roland Garros but I saw some signs for it. I do really enjoy watching tennis and got to see Nadal play at the Roger’s Cup in Montreal in 2005. I’d love to have another excuse to go back to Paris, so maybe tennis is the next bucket list item?!
Oh, that’s good to know. I hope that, by the time we book to go again, our dollar is at better parity with the Euro.
And if you are a tennis fan you have to go to the French Open, it’s a bucket list must. I can now say I have been to the US and French Open and Wimbledon. Next. Melbourne! Ha! Ha! Yeah, maybe not. And who knows, maybe one day we will see one another in Montreal. We’re going again this summer (I think?)
The dollar is horrible right now 🙁 1.5 to 1.
I have the Catacombs as a maybe on my list, but the stairs and the really dark space is a little off-putting. We *may* try to fit it in if we can, so I’m glad to have your endorsement. It seems like it would be a super impactful experience.
And Disneyland Paris! What a great surprise! I’m glad you got to do that with the kids – such a fun day!
It is a twisty staircase (so is Sacre Coeur and to a lesser extent the Arc de Triumph – and some points in Sacre Coeur are SO narrow; it would not be good if you’re at all claustrophobic), but I guess that’s the only way to get so far underground. I really enjoyed the Catacombs. I don’t think I’ll ever feel the need to go back again, but I’m glad we were able to visit this time and the kids found it interesting as well.
Disneyland was SO fun! I enjoyed it a lot which surprised me (I thought the lines and crowds and merchandise would bug me, but it really is a special atmosphere!)
Exciting that you went to Disney! YAY! I’ve been to Disneyland in LA 3 times…I am happy to never go back, but it was fun. Disneyland has Grad Night, where from closing time at night to opening time the next morning, the park is open to graduating HS seniors. SO FUN. Lines are short, no kids, no parents. That was my favorite time. The other two times we went with 5 year olds (Ted’s niece once, then Maya the other time) and 5 is kind of young for the all day and long lines thing.
Catacombs…so creepy, what an artistic and truly terrible solution to the issue. I would be horrified to find that my ancestor’s remains were there. Maybe. Maybe it would be cool. I am pretty sure I don’t want MY skull down there. Maybe. Maybe it would be cool. My initial reaction is that it’s barbaric and horrible, and then I think, wait…kinda cool. HA!
That apricot tarte is calling me….When I go back to Paris I’m going to eat one of those every day until I don’t want them anymore.
I don’t feel too much need to every go back to Disney, but it WAS more fun than I expected. Not having lines would be nice!
It is rather strange to expose someone’s remains to the general public (though, and I forgot to mention this in my writeup – darn! – they were also having issues with so many dead bodies spreading disease when they were being buried in mass graves). So it was a rather clever, albeit macabre, way to solve many problems at once.
The apricot tarte was so, so good. I can only think of a single pastry that was very Meh the whole time we were there. They know how to make sweet treats.
This is bringing me fond memories of our trip to paris and we ABSOLUTELY loved disney, we stayed there 1 or 2 nights in disney hotel and also loved it! it’s the perfect age for us to go and I personally love it too, as it’s so festival. I’ve been to orlando (with my mom), tokyo (with sofia), and paris with the girls and hubby. I’m thinking to take them to orlando this summer so Sofia would have visited all disneys.
It would have been fun to stay in a Disney hotel! We added a stop to Disney long after we had booked our rental in Paris, but I was glad it was a small enough park that we felt like we could see most of it in a single day. I’m sure it helped we were visiting during the off-season.
That apricot tarte belongs on the cover of a food magazine! Once again your photos are phenomenal.
The struggle to get the kids somewhere you know they are going to love is *so* relatable, haha. “Just trust us!!” I would love to go to Disneyland Paris. I’ve never been to any of the Disney parks and I think the smaller size would be just right. My mother-in-law took Greta and Cece to Disney World last spring and they loved it. I do have a dream of signing up for one of the half marathon weekends at Disney and making that the focus of the trip, but of course spending a few days riding the rides. I’m with Belle, I’m a rollercoaster aficionado, but I *can’t* do rides that tilt at an angle anymore. Loops and big drops are fine!
Did you visit the Capuchin crypt when you were in Rome? It’s in the basement of an old monastery and is a smaller scale to the catacombs. It was one of our favourite places to take visitors because it’s so unique and sobering at the same time. I think people in centuries past were much more comfortable with the idea of death and didn’t see it as something macabre or spooky.
On my tombstone I’d love to have the phrase from 1 Corinthians: “But the greatest of these is love.”
You’re too kind, Kate! That apricot tarte was as delicious as it looks.
We didn’t go to that crypt in Rome and now I’m kicking myself. I don’t remember if viewing the Roman catacombs even crossed our radar when we visited? The kids are keen to visit, so maybe we’ll get back in the not-so-distant-future?
I love the idea of having a Scripture verse. If I had to choose one, now that I’m thinking about it, it would be also be a verse from Corinthians. 2 Corinthians 4:7: But we have this treasure in jars of clay, to show that the surpassing power belongs to God and not to us.
What a lovely adventure. I’m surprised the kids didn’t pick up on the trip to Disney with other people on the train. When we went to Paris in Oct. 2022, there were a lot of people going to Disney. We skipped Disneyland Paris as we’ve been to Orlando several times (we lived in FL afterall!) and I’m of the opinion, “seen it once, and it’s enough!” And the price now, is just way too much; however, I’ve meet people that go every year. $$$$$$$$
I always go on the It’s A Small World ride. Maybe because it is one of the handful of things I remember from the 1964 World’s Fair in New York City is that ride with my dad and sister and the song. You can’t ever forget that song!
We arrived at 9:45 am, so were on an EARLY train. When we got off, there were some people with Mickey ears but they had been sitting in another part of the train and we never saw them. There was a teen couple and she had on a Lilo and Stitch onesie PJ set, but it wasn’t very obvious what she was wearing and I don’t think either kid paid it any attention.
It’s funny – until you mentioned this, I never even thought about other people talking about Disney. Phew. Dodged a bullet on that one.
I don’t feel the need to ever do Disney again, but I am glad we were able to make a day trip out of it. The exchange rate is HORRIBLE for CAD right now, so it was less than $300 USD, but $404 CAD. Which is A LOT for a single day adventure, but we saved so much money not buying food, clothes, or staying in a hotel on the property.
We took the kids to Disneyland Alamein and spent 5 days there because they have two parks. E was too short for a lot of the scary rides, and he kept requesting to go on It’s a Small World while G went with H and S. Let me just say that I certainly got over it! I could cope with Space Mountain and other similar rides; I really hate ones with big drops. On the last day, we all chose a ride we wanted to do for a second time, and S and I did Space Mountain. I have one of those photos, and the two girls in front of us have looks of absolute terror, I’m looking exhilarated, and S is sitting there with a completely bored look on her face. The catacombes are creepy but strangely beautiful. Weird.
The catacombs were such an odd mix of creepy and fascinating and beautiful. I’m glad we went. I don’t think I’d feel the need to do it again, but I would look into visiting Roman catacombs!
Well, I have never been to any theme park besides Legoland in the early 90s when I was about 11 or 12.
My family is not ig on theme parks and rides.
The catacombs however were very fascinating and creepy when I saw them during my exchange stay in 9th grade. I only later really understood that all the bones and sculls belonged to real people. So creepy. I think just a bit prior I read the perfume and it enhanced the experience.
Fun day in Paris. Looking forward to the next adventure.
What an amazing two days! I love that you surprised the kids – and glad that they so clearly snapped out of the grumpiness and seemed to really enjoy the day. I hope that you manage to find a sufficient number of roller coasters to appease Belle, though! I love roller coasters and the last one I was on was several years ago in the Mall of America, of all places!
The catacombs are thought-provoking, for sure. I can only imagine the debates and discussion that went into the final decision. I don’t think I’d mind being one of millions – after all, my life would be over, at that point. I can see, though, why some people might not react well to their ancestors’ remains being located under the city.
Thank you for sharing all of your photos and the details of your trip – you, and Birchie, and Kyria, and Kae are all reigniting my interest in traveling. 🙂
The kids just adored Disney. I knew they would, but I think I was surprised just HOW much they liked it <3
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