I know you’re used to a barrage of pictures, but this post is ratcheting things up to a brand new level.
What can I say? Venice is extremely photogenic.
AN EVENING IN VENICE
We were on the road leaving Monaco about 8:30 am. The drive was relatively uneventful, though the highway was terrifying. We were surrounded by transport trucks. I’ve never seen anything like it. There were hundreds of trucks going full-speed on a major highway.
Aside from a few bathroom and food stops along the way, we made great time and were happy to arrive at our Airbnb, located in Mestre, mid-afternoon. Technically you can park a car on the outskirts of Venice, but we opted for free parking and a 15-minute bus ride from our place in Mestre which ended up being ideal.
We were able to buy bus tickets at a shop across the street, and from there it was a 30-second walk to the bus stop. So convenient!
After unpacking a bit, sorting out Wifi, and starting a load of laundry, we took the bus to Venice and were treated to incredible golden light!!!
We couldn’t stop taking pictures, though I’ll admit it all started to blur together a bit since there are 435 bridges in Venice, so you are CONSTANTLY crossing picturesque canals.
In the larger canals, it’s common to see water taxis zooming back and forth. You can actually take a boat from the airport to get directly to your hotel in Venice. How cool is that??
Belle’s selfie skills far exceeded mine!
After some strolling, we stopped for cannolis. They looked a bit better than they tasted (I found them bland and dry), but when in Italy, you have to eat a cannoli, right?
The kids didn’t complain.
There are only four bridges that span the Grand Canal and this is one of them: Ponte dell’Accademia.
Her unintentional hair flip shot looks so glamorous!
This musician was playing INCREDIBLE music using water glasses filled up to different levels. I could have stayed and listened for hours.
Bridges! Water! Boats! Laundry hanging out of windows! Singing gondoliers! It was exactly like the Venice we’d seen in movies.
There are three (at least, maybe four?) leaning towers within Venice.
We eventually wound up in St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco), the central hub of the city. It’s full of pigeons (it’s illegal to feed them, though there were people trying to sell us crumbs; we declined) which I found innocuous, but was unsettling to one of the kids.
This is where Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica are located; because we didn’t have much time, we didn’t get tickets for either, but both are extremely busy and popular. You can take an elevator to the top of St. Mark’s Campanile (Bell Tower) for birds-eye views of the city, but we didn’t get around to doing that either.
Family selfie for the win!
More quaint canals. And, once you’re away from tourist hot-spots like St. Mark’s Square, things felt relatively quiet.
I love this picture of John and Belle together on a bridge.
Wouldn’t it be so cool to access your hotel from the water??!!
There are over 400 gondoliers working on the canals of Venice. Certain places have a much higher concentration, though, and this was one of them.
Before we headed back to Mestre for the night, we wanted to get dinner. We opted for an authentic Italian restaurant near St. Mark’s Square. It was delicious… and way too much food. We were all stuffed by the end of the meal. Thankfully, we had lots of walking on the way back to the bus station.
Carbonara for me.
A salmon gnocchi dish for Indy. It was delicious.
By this point in the evening, the square was all lit up.
The view from the Rialto Bridge (another one that spans the Grand Canal).
Yet another tree pose! (I now know his technique, thanks to Engie, is NOT ideal. Oops.)
The colours of the Italian flag.
OUR FULL DAY IN VENICE
The kids shared a room (two single beds for the win!), and we had a relatively leisurely morning. While the apartment was a bit dated (sensing a theme?), it was enormous. And we all appreciated having lots of space to spread out after spending so many hours cooped up inside a car.
Within a few minutes of getting off the bus, we wandered into a little canal-side cafe. It had good reviews online: we got pancakes (for Belle), a Nutella croissant (for Indy), a plain croissant (for John) and cafe lattes (for me + the boys).
This was a special moment that stood out for me from the whole trip. The sun was shining. We had a full day ahead of us in an iconic city. We were sitting right beside a gorgeous canal watching boats zoom by, and soaking it all up for the first time together (neither John nor I had ever been to Venice). And I had a hot cup of caffeine in my hand.
Bliss.
I had done a bit of research the night before and identified Ponte San Polo as our target location to get a gondola ride. Speaking of gondolas, here are a few relevant details:
- The prices for gondola rides are set and inflexible. For 2026, it’s €90 until 7 pm at night; after 7 pm, it’s €110. If anyone is trying to sell you on a ride at a different rate, it’s likely a scam.
- There are hundreds of gondola options. The biggest collection of gondolas are at major intersections of the Grand Canal but that’s a very touristy/busy location. We knew we wanted to mostly spend time exploring little side canals, and Ponte San Polo consistently came up as the best launch spot.
This experience was everything we had hoped it would be and more. We started our ride about 11 am—it was warm and sunny, but not hot. We had to slow down once as we went past another gondola; later in the day, we saw “traffic jams” of sorts. It felt like we had the city to ourselves. We talked to the gondolier ahead of time to make sure we would go out briefly into the Grand Canal. It was the perfect mix of intimate side canals and a few minutes spent exploring the main artery.
I had to laugh at this speed sign! For boats!
The kids LOVED it. Our gondolier was very chatty and both volunteered information and was also happy to answer all our questions. He was born and raised in Venice. It’s hard to imagine growing up in a place with no cars and going to school and the grocery store in such an enclosed city.
He told us the iconic striped poles no longer serve any functional purpose, but they used to convey information about property owners. Now they’re mostly photo ops for tourists.
The next few pictures were from when we were out on the Grand Canal, but even then we stayed in a quiet section, which I appreciated.
The whole ride felt like something straight from the movies.
On Ponte San Polo after our ride was over (that’s our gondolier in the background).
We strolled streets for a while and stumbled upon this adorable store. We love quirky folk art and ended up buying one of these house frames. Everything is made out of recycled wood and other items found around Venice and it’s all created by people with a variety of physical barriers. The woman working at the store was absolutely lovely and gave us all sorts of information about their mission. Not only did we love supporting a great cause, it was our favourite art of the day and we can’t wait to hang this on our wall at home.
Next, we happened upon a Nino Chocolate Store. We went in and were absolutely bombarded with samples which were all amazing—everything was delicious and it saved us having to stop for dessert 😉
In February, they have a Carnival Festival which is an iconic celebration in the region. There are intricate masks everywhere available for purchase. (I find them a bit creepy.)
Next was a stop at Libreria Acqua Alta which claims to be the most beautiful bookshop in the world. Hmmm. It was unique to be sure, but I think “most beautiful” is likely a stretch!
Because Venice floods so regularly, they store books inside gondola boats and bathtubs! For quite a while this was a hidden gem, but now the secret’s out and it’s definitely a magnet for tourists—including us!
The proximity to the water/canal is incredible.
They’ve created a stairway with books that have been damaged by flooding and you can climb up them and look over the wall into the canal below.
Then we were back into the streets for more wandering! I don’t think it would be very fun to navigate through Venice in the peak of summer tourism (and I 100% understand why local Venetians have a love/hate relationship with tourists), but at this point in April, aside from the central locations, everything felt quite open and relaxed.
Ca’ Dario is colloquially known as The House of No Return. Supposedly, tragic things befall anyone who ends up buying or living at the spot. I think it’s currently for sale for the cool price of €20 million?
Monet painted it in 1908 (in a variety of different lighting conditions). I pulled the picture from here.
Oh look, ANOTHER NINO! John and Belle hadn’t gone in to the one we came across earlier in the day, so this time they started things off… and Indy and I eventually joined in. More free samples. We were tempted to buy some chocolate (it was delicious), but we still had some hot road tripping ahead of us which we knew wouldn’t be ideal for transporting delicate chocolate.
Laundry hanging outside to dry is one of the most iconic photo-ops from Venice and there is plenty of fodder.
Next up was Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo which is famous for a beautiful spiral staircase. It’s also supposed to offer a stunning view of the city, but when we arrived, we learned it had closed early for the day for a private event. Womp, womp. Oh well, it saved us money for the entry fee.
We also stopped by San Zaccaria. Because of rising water levels, the basement crypt in this church (which contains the remains of eight different leaders of the Venetian Republic) is almost always flooded.
We stopped for gelato which was AH-MAZING. Maybe not quite as good as my mint chocolate from Monaco, but an extremely close second.
Then it was back to St. Mark’s Square to enjoy such a gorgeous day. We were treated to sunshine and blue skies from morning until evening. But, because of all the alleyways, there was plenty of shade.
We stopped for a late lunch at a pizzeria and ended up being so full, that was our only meal of the day (we’d picked up a few snacks earlier). We split two pizzas and they were yummy! It was also lovely to get off our feet.
Climbing happened, of course.
We were also on the hunt for some Murano glass souvenirs, and spent hours popping in and out of shops looking at the different options.
Back on the Rialto Bridge! And more golden-hour lighting.
I love this family picture. Christmas photo card, perhaps??
This was Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. It’s the largest church in Venice (it was huge), and we managed to get a look inside with a handful of minutes before it closed for the day.
More laundry.
We spent some time walking through the Venetian ghetto. I had no idea, but sadly Venice was home to the first/oldest Jewish ghetto in the world (established in the 1500s).
It was clearly where a lot of local Venetians went to relax on a Friday night. The streets were FULL of people, and it didn’t look like many of them were tourists. There was also a minor police presence; this is a very active Jewish community with a number of synagogues.
Our last main stop for the day was Ponte Chiodo which has the distinction of being the last bridge in Venice without railings! It’s now privately owned, but gives a good idea of what all the bridges in Venice used to look like prior to the 1800s.
Epic.
I am so, so, so thankful we went to Venice. It was never a spot I felt particularly drawn to visit, and it exceeded all my expectations. I’d definitely go back again, spending some extra time in the area so I could visit the surrounding islands (Murano, Burano and Torcello).
Your turn:
- My brain is mush and I can’t think of a single participation prompt. Comment as you wish on whatever you like. Ha!
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I know you warned us about a barrage of photos, but this really is next level!
Venice just keeps delivering one perfect scene after another.
That café moment the next morning sounds like one of those rare, perfect travel moments.
And the gondola ride! You chose well. Starting away from the chaos and getting that mix of quiet canals and a bit of Grand Canal was a great decision. Also, I love that you did your research and went in with a plan, very satisfying when it pays off like that.
Venice really seems to have hit the sweet spot for you all!
It really was a perfect travel memory and you’re right that it’s rare to have something feel that magical.
Venice took me by surprise. I loved it!
I loved Venice so much when we went with H. We stayed in a little apartment out of the bustle. But I was not game to hang out washing on the outside line hung between the our building and the one opposite. We used the clothes horse in the apartment. You will have to go back and visit the little islands. We went to a restaurant connected to a winery and restaurant on one of the islands connected by bridge to Burano which was pretty unique
I would love to go visit all the islands. They look so picturesque!
This is epic! I am speechless because I was today years old when I learned that there is more than one leaning tower.
I hate to tell you, but you are going to have a very hard time picking the picture for your family Christmas card because there will be so many epic options.
Okay, it says there are three ON Venice, and then another on one of the nearby islands.
Have you been? I think you’d really like Venice!!
Thank you for sharing Venezia with us today! I was there once and, like you, what I enjoyed most were the breakfasts, a cappuccino and a brioche (chocolate croissant) by the side of a canal. Perfection.
It’s such a perfect setting for a pastry and coffee, especially when the sun was shining. And no cars or traffic noise which really adds to the atmosphere.
These photos are extraordinary. I want to print them and hang them on my wall. I also love all the selfies — you have such a lovely family. And Belle looks like a supermodel with her gorgeous flowing mane.
My mom went to Venice many years ago and didn’t love it, so I’ve always kind of written it off — but your experience has kind of changed my mind! That book staircase!!! Seeing the exact spot Monet painted! The FOOD!!!
I have heard very mixed reviews of Venice. In fact, when John and I were in Rome we had debated taking a train to Venice for a day trip and I had ZERO desire.
But Belle really wanted to go to Italy and I really didn’t have much interest in Milan (and Rome was too far out of the way). So… Venice became the choice. Maybe because I had such low expectations, I loved it more? The kids also LOVED, LOVED, LOVED it.
It was such a nice break from heavily trafficked cities, and it was so unique. I also think it helped we had gorgeous weather but were there before the insane crowds of the summer.
Indy’s tree pose is stressing me out for his future knees.
These pictures are gorgeous! Venice is stunning. I’m glad you changed your Italy plans and went there.
There is an exhibit in San Francisco right now of Monet’s paintings in Venice. I’m looking forward to going, and I wish you could come with me to say, ‘oh, I was there! Oh, I was THERE TOO!’ Then we’d go to North Beach (the Italian part of town) and get some gelato, though I’m sure it wouldn’t be as good as what you had in Monaco and Venice, it would remind you in a delicious way.
I talked to him about his pose stance and he declared, after trying the correct posture, he doesn’t like to do it the other way. We’ll see if I can convince him. I don’t think 11-year olds spend too much time worrying about their future joint and bone health. SIGH.
I would love to go to the exhibit with you. LOVE IT. Spending time with you looking at art, gelato. It sounds perfect.
I’m SO GLAD you went to Venice!!! It’s such a unique and beautiful place. I love the family photo at St Marks’ square. I’m not sure if that bookstore is the beautiful one in the world, but it’s definitely the most interesting (and I’m so mad I didn’t go there when I was in Venice- how did I miss that????) Anyway, the whole say sounds lovely. I’m sure it will stand out as a highlight of the trip. (Oooh! When you’re back home maybe you can do a “top ten” highlights post!)
It was SO unique and far more beautiful than I expected.
Venice will almost certainly make the Top Ten cut; love this idea for a post, too 🙂
Your photos. . . awe inspiring. Stunning.
Lots of random thoughts and questions:
1. How in the world are those buildings maintained on the outside?
2. How deep are those canals?
3. Are gondoliers pushing off with a pole or rowing? Are there any motorized boats on the canals?
4. How in the world did such a city get built?
5. Why does Belle make fun of your dress when hers is similarly cute?
6. The difference between ice cream and gelato: ice cream has more fat, (usually) less sugar, and air whipped into it.
7. Do we get to see what Murano glass object you chose?
8. What do all the people who lived crammed into those apartments do for a living?? They can’t all be gondoliers and shop proprietors and restauranteurs, can they?
9. Where does the sewage go in the city?
10. Why is the water rising? I wonder if the city has a plan for when the regular living/walking level is underwater. . .
1/3. I don’t really know much about the how and why of things in Venice, but I do know that the city is crumbling and Venice is seen, to some extent, as a version of last chance tourism.
2. The canals are about 2 m deep in the side canals, I think, and 4-5 m in the Grand Canal.
3. The gondoliers push with the pole. There are motorized boats (and lots of them) on wider canals and especially on the Grand Canal. They’re water taxis!
4. Because she’s a teen girl, that’s why.
7. Everything is wrapped tightly in bubble wrap right now. (And some of the things are gifts.) Eventually?
8. I have no idea. But most of them would have something to do with catering to tourists.
9. No idea.
10. Global warming, I assume? And also, the structures are sinking because of erosion.
I’m here to ask hard hitting questions? Does it smell bad? I’m looking at that bookstore and think it’s irresponsible to have so many lovely books in an area that floods REGULARLY. #protectthebooks
What is the bug situation like with all that water?
It is pretty, but I’m clearly not sold on being surrounded by water!!
It did not smell bad at all. I agree that a part of me was very sad to see so many water-damaged books.
A lot of Venice floods regularly, so I think this is a common issue, especially now. I’m not sure how long they’ve been storing things inside bathtubs and such, but I know the flooding issues are getting progressively worse.
I didn’t see any bugs when we were there, but it was also early April, not the dead of summer which would be HOT.
I went to Venice once in my mid-20s – I was spending three weeks in Italy to take Italian lessons and went to Venice with two other ladies from the language program. We didn’t realize, but it was carnival season – how we managed to snag three beds in a hostel, I don’t know. How lucky we were. Anyhow, it was a beautiful trip, and you’re pictures brought up so many memories for me.
I have never understood cannoli. Something about it always tastes stale to me. Maybe I’ve just never had good cannoli?
YES! They do taste a bit stale.
I had a much better cannoli in Florence, but even then, it wasn’t my favourite!
Venice looks absolutely magical!
I absolutely adore Venice, and, like you, I was somewhat skeptical before we went — the same way I’m skeptical about a book that’s getting tons of popular hype. (I guess it’s a form of pride — like if something appeals to “the common masses”, it must not be for me?! Blech!) But anyway, it remains one of the most magical places I have ever visited. Reading your post prompted me to go back to my own blog to revisit pictures from when we visited in November 2019 and… I never blogged about it!!! I was so far behind on posting about our travels when we came back to the US in March 2020, and the last thing I documented was our trip to Pompeii in October 2019! So at some point I will have to go back and upload our pictures for posterity.
The gondola ride was a similar experience for us. We debated about if it was worth the money for such a “tourist trap”. The answer was YES!!!
I think my absolute favourite part of our visit was a strings concert I attended. It was set up in a church and the program was strictly Vivaldi. I’ve heard The Four Seasons countless times but being in the place where he wrote it brought it to life in a whole different way.
That photo of Belle and John on the bridge melts my heart.
I felt obligated to do the gondola ride but was 100% sure it wouldn’t be that cool.
IT WAS SO COOL.
We saw a practice for a Vivaldi concert when we were in Venice!
Ah Venice! I went on Easter Sunday in 2000 and I think about it often. I was too poor (college student) to take the gondolier ride and I’m glad you all got to have that cool experience! Is Assisi on your agenda? We loved it there too!