I have a love-hate relationship with summer. On the one hand, during the long, dark and cold Canadian winter I am kept alive by the promise of a day in the future where we no longer require warm hats, gloves, heavy boots, and a dozen other cold-weather accoutrements just to walk to the mailbox.
Then summer arrives and I start cursing the heat and the pollen and the need for sunscreen and the wet towels and sand over the floors and ALL. THE. HOURS. THAT. NEED. FILLING.
I have never worked full-time since becoming a mother, and the kids have been “home” each summer. COVID aside, there have always been a smattering of camps and trips to visit my parents or in-laws. But, mostly, there have been local day trips, schlepping around to swimming lessons, and trying to keep everyone reasonably happy close to home by hosting playdates and preparing yet another snack.
Those things are all lovely and a wonderful part of summer. But they are also downright exhausting by the end of August.
Also, there has been an ongoing challenging situation in our local area that gets more intense in the summer. So we are looking to fill July and August with lots of fun activities that keep our days fairly full offsite.
I think we have a GREAT summer ahead. Both kids have a week of overnight camp (L’s first, a big step), there are some half-day sports camps (which leave many afternoons/evenings/weekends open for local adventuring and lazy days at home), a few visits to my parents, and John and I are going to see Nate Bargatze perform!!
That leaves us with one final – fairly substantial – stretch of time to fill this summer. After the success of our first overseas trip in March, we’re optimistic enough to consider an international destination again.
We will be booking the tickets on points and have special reward offers that expire soon…so the clock is ticking.
The front-running idea is spending two weeks in Portugal.
PROS
- John was born in Portugal! He speaks Portuguese! The kids are half Portuguese and have never been to Portugal!
- Given the points and rewards options, tickets are extremely inexpensive (~$125/person round-trip; insane).
- It is beautiful.
- Car rentals are very reasonably priced; public transit is inexpensive.
- Pasteis de nata are THE BEST (fun fact, we served these as the “groom’s cake” at our wedding). Like churros in Spain, I think we would aim to have a pastel every day of our visit.
CONS
- July and August are the PRIME tourist months in Portugal. It will be busy and accommodations will be more expensive.
- In general, I hate crowds. There will definitely be crowds.
- It could be very hot. I wilt in direct summer sunlight.
- Accommodation options will be limited booking so late in the season.
- We would be looking to go for an extended period (14ish days) which means quite a bit of itinerary planning. I hate making decisions and there would definitely be decisions involved with this process.
THOUGHTS
- We’d fly in and out of Lisbon and spend a few days (4-5 total) bookending our trip with time in Lisbon.
- Getting there is easy. The flights are cheap, the timing is AMAZING in terms of departure from Canada/arrival in Lisbon. It’s sorting out an itinerary. We could use Lisbon as a home base and then take the high-speed train to Madrid and hang out there for a few days?. Or, do we want to rent a car and go to 2-3 other locations within Portugal?
- I want this trip to be relaxed. Our Barcelona trip was practically perfect but I’d be looking for this trip to be more spontaneous. More days just spent…wandering.
Thoughts? Have you been to Portugal? If so, must visit locations/attractions? Or, pitch me some other perfect summer destination…
Header photo by Natali Quijano on Unsplash
Melissa
I have not been to Portugal, although I would like to go. I’ll be coming back to the comments to see what people suggest. The crowds and the heat will be a lot, but I’m sure people will be able to suggest some places to get away from the crowds for a break. It might even be hot enough for you to swim in the sea!
Elisabeth
You’re right! I might be so hot swimming in the ocean will be appealing. In general, I abhor swimming because I get sooo cold! Portugal in the heat of summer might change my mind.
Frania
This is one of my favorite travel blogs, and she has a 14 day itinerary for Portugal and Spain as well!
Looking forward to reading your plans as Portugal on our list too!
https://jessicalynnwrites.com/tag/portugal/
Elisabeth
Thank you so much for that link! We are going to book plane tickets today!
Steph
I have been to Portugal! I had a LOVELY time, even with the crowds. 🙂
The palace and surrounding area in Cascais was gorgeous. I also really enjoyed the Douro Valley; the grape vines (used for Port) are from the Roman Empire and a UNESCO world heritage site!!!
Also, the interior of the country (which I did not visit) is not touristy at all. Perhaps that is an option for you all since you’ll be with a Lusophone and he can navigate things?
Elisabeth
Thanks for these recommendations. I literally just wrote them all down on a notepad. We booked the tickets minutes ago, so the lot is cast! We’re excited. Now to book accommodations and start planning. What you’re describing sounds LOVELY.
I suspect we’ll spend most of the time on the coast, but should look to do some day trips to the interior region. I know the beaches are the big draw in the summer, so it makes sense they’re much less frequented areas in-land, but no doubt equally beautiful!
Sanne
I live in Europe and I have only ever been to Lisbon – not in summer, so not sure how oppresive the heat is in summer. Love the idea of bookending your trip there. It’s a personal preference but I would then opt to go to one other place, preferably at the beach, get a holiday home, take it easy, maybe do some short daytrips. I just really like the combination of a city, which is always more active, and a week of rest.
If you do want more destinations I would definitely add Porto, everyone I know who has been there loves it! And there’s also beaches in easy access there.
Elisabeth
I think this is going to be our general plan. We might not rent a car until we’re ready to leave Lisbon and then go up to the North (Porto is on our list for sure!) and have a home base there, but do some day trips. It’s a surprisingly small country, so I think we can do some really lovely day trips without having to go very far?
Sabine
While I have not really been on holidays in Portugal, I have been a few times for work – also in summer. And yes, it can be very hot and also probably crowded, but it is still beautiful. In addition to Lisbon please also check the North of the country – the Porto/Braga region.
Elisabeth
Yes! We are 100% going to go North (we booked the tickets minutes ago, so we ARE going).
Jan Coates
I can’t remember if John still has family in Portugal? If so, then I say do it. Take several dresses and a big hat:) We’re thinking of Portugal for next winter. Happy to hear that car rental is inexpensive, relatively. Seems there are lots of rentals available, but I was looking at March.
Elisabeth
He does. We won’t see them much, but it will be lovely for them to meet the kids for the first time.
YES! I will be wearing dresses almost the whole time I’m sure and have a few floppy hats which will be my friend <3
I will be taking lots of notes for you; what a lovely March destination. Does this mean you'll skip Georgia?
Jenny
Ooh! I’ve never been to Portugal! I say go for it. There are so many pros to outweigh the cons- John speaking the language being one of them. I’ll bet you’ll get lots of good suggestions in the comments here. This is exciting!
Elisabeth
We went for it…tickets are BOOKED!
Sara
I feel like since you already did Spain, maybe somewhere a little different?? I cannot recommend Poland or Croatia enough in the summer. It’s literally amazing. Usually super affordable with the rate exchange and the food is amazing!
Elisabeth
We did end up booking tickets for Portugal (the price was just so incredible). BUT, I have heard so many lovely things about Croatia, so I am making a note in my planner – this minute – to look at that as a destination next year.
Szim
We had a 5 day stopover in Lisbon last summer and while parts of the city were incredibly crowded indeed (the touristy part) there were so many parts of the city that didn’t feel like that. We stayed in Saldanha on the recommendation of Portuguese friends and it was great- tons of restaurant choices, right in the airport subway line, so many parks near by but not at all over run with tourists. My kids are younger than yours (6 and 9) we spent wonderful nights having picnic dinners in parks, and the adults enjoyed the “kiosk” scene (a glass of wine while your kids are happily playing is genius). The zip line at the playground in parque Eduardo VII was a huge hit. We found the city super walkable too- which conveniently provide a good reason for an ice cream break. I think Lisbon is a great wandering city— history (and a Patel de nada!) are around every corner
Elisabeth
This is making me so excited!!! I love the idea of a slower walking pace and just wandering around a beautiful city that will have, I suspect, a fairly laid-back vibe. I took notes about what you mentioned in this comment! Thanks so much. Things like zip lines are parks make for some of the best memories on vacation, so I love learning details like this. I’m going to send you an e-mail with a few more questions!
SHU
that sounds absolutely lovely. If you want more relaxed, maybe just stay in Portugal? Might be more conducive to wandering. But I am no expert on European travel (only went once in like 2002!). I think our fam will do our first Europe trip next year (something very northern, we always want NOT HOT places in summer when escaping FL!).
Elisabeth
The tickets are booked – now on to the planning. I think my gut is leaning toward just doing Portugal. Though, while talking with a friend today – who has friends who live in Spain – she said they RAVE about Madrid and said it’s a more authentic Spanish experience than Barcelona. (I think Kae also LOVED Madrid).
I’m feeling cautiously optimistic about the planning. We’re there for so much longer than Barcelona, so I think we’ll do about the same amount of stuff but at a much slower rate!
Daria
I have a post on Portugal from last summer! https://momofchildren.com/2023/07/10/ola-portugal/
I recommend staying in one of the villages on the Algarve coast- not Faro or Lagos, but other, teeny-tiny towns. Yes it will be packed but less so in less touristy towns. We were in Armaçao de Pêra and there were other towns next to our town. I highly recommend dishing out some $$ for a place close to the water, preferably with a balcony, this way you’ll get the breeze and the view. Plus, lugging all the beach stuff with you if you are far away is ugh… I think Portugal is an excellent idea. I am looking at Azores for next year.
Elisabeth
Yes! I read your recap yesterday and was looking up information about Armaçao de Pêra (that cave tour looks amazing).
After Lisbon, I think we’ll likely aim for a few days in the south, and then a 4-5 days up North (maybe not IN Porto, but at least close to it).
Nicole MacPherson
I have not been to Portugal but would love to go! I totally get it though – it will be crowded and hot. But! It would also be amazing. And wow, those tickets are cheeeeap!
Ugh, sorry the neighbourhood sitch is still going. That really, really sucks.
Elisabeth
We went for it. Tickets are booked!
Yes, it’s been a tough few years BUT having a plan for the summer feels really good and very necessary. Having the option to leave (when the going is likely to get tougher!) is such a blessing and it feels good to have grasped that option.
NGS
Such exciting travel opportunities for you kids! I can’t wait to hear all about it as you’re planning!
Elisabeth
The kids are living quite a life. I went to Europe for the first time on a trip with A…and wasn’t even on an airplane until I was 19!!!
We’re so fortunate to be able to do these sorts of adventures and I hope the kids grow up with an appreciation for how big and vast and beautiful the world is.
Diane
So exciting! I have never been to Portugal but I have friends who have family there and they love it and have been multiple times.
And if it is hot and crowded, I think that’s a perfect excuse for afternoon naps and a relaxed pace!
Can’t wait to hear about it!
Elisabeth
Love this point. Yes! Heat and crowds may naturally make us take a slower pace. Afternoon naps sounds decadent – especially if we get up and walk to find a pastel when we wake up.
Lisa's Yarns
Oh fun! I think 2 weeks in Portugal sounds amazing. I did not know that John was born there and speaks Portuguese! That is awesome! My bias would be to stay in the country of Portugal rather than fitting a trip to Madrid in. I know the high speed trains are super efficient but it might simplify things to just explore Portugal and all it has to offer. I’ve heard nothing but great things about that country and would love to visit someday.
There are a lot naysayers re: Europe in the summer, but my first trip to Paris was in late June and it was totally fine! I was not overwhelmed by the crowds. You are less likely to find air conditioning but we set our air conditioning at 78 in the summer so we do well in warmer temps I guess? My other trips to Paris were during the winter so it was far quieter but then all then everything is kind of brown/dead/dying… which is fine! But there’s something to be said for seeing a country when things are blooming! I can’t wait to live vicariously through you!
My feelings about summer are so different from yours since it’s not very different from the school year. The kids are in full time care and always will be until they are old enough to be on their own. And that full time care it outside of our house so it’s so similar to the school year overall that it doesn’t feel all that different for us. But if my kids were home and I was home with them, then I would be making a giant list of things to do to stay sane since we are in a stage of life where being home for long stretches of time is not good for anyone.
Elisabeth
I think we’re leaning toward just staying in Portugal the whole time. And I think the heat and crowds might make it feel more relaxed in a way. We’ll have have lower expectations about fitting a ton of stuff in. Also, I feel like we’re “off-the-beaten-track” travellers. We will be the people going to the lesser-known hidden gems and we definitely want to see some lighthouses.
Summer is…long. I never envisioned it being anything but magical as a parent, but I’ve done quite a bit of solo parenting in the summer with kids home ALL DAY. It’s easier the older they get but in the the little years it was rough. I’m a fairly low energy introvert, so having to be with kids/hosting playdates/doing things to keep kids busy/having a messy house and no real plan is kinda my worst nightmare? Also, because of the challenging situation I just can’t live life as freely as I’d like in the summer. So having plans, a lot of them being out of neighbourhood, are just super helpful!
Elinoora
Portugal is great 😊 we went about 7-8 years I, pre second kid,with my parents in law and brother in law. We rented a house with a swimming pool, because we were quite near the coast but not that near. And, funnily enough, that was in Cascais!
we visited Boca do Inferno, which was awesome. And took the train to Lisbon to spend the day there.
Also, another shout-out for Croatia, we spent our honeymoon there, and it was awesome.
Elisabeth
Croatia is officially now on the top of our “next-time” trip list! There are so many places we want to visit in the world, but I feel like we made the right call with Portugal. We needed to get the kids there since it’s a big part of their heritage and for some reason Lisbon was basically the least expensive place we could go (using our travel rewards) over the window we had available.
A house with a pool sounds perfect! I think we’ll try to find some apartment-style accommodations so we have a place to cook for some of our meals!
Christa Lamb
I have been to Portugal a few times. Loved Porto the best.
Elisabeth
Porto is basically a must for us, I think? And seems to consistently rank higher than Lisbon across the board!
CS
My husband and I went to Portugal for 10 days in 2019. We added it onto a larger trip with stops in Spain and Italy. We spent three days in the Algarve region, four days in Lisbon, and three days in Porto. We rented a car to get around the Algarve and drive to the small towns, but used trains to get from from Faro to Lisbon and Lisbon to Porto, and public transit to get around Lisbon and Porto. Highly recommend the Rick Steves’ Portugal guide. Feel free to email me if you want any specifics of our trip!
Elisabeth
This all sounds great (and we want to do something similar – south, middle, north)! I will e-mail you right now 🙂
Sophie
Ooh I LOVE Portugal – so exciting you are going! I’ve been twice, once with friends a decade ago, and once with my husband in 2016, the year before we had kids. Both times were fabulous! I looove those Portuguese tarts and yes we did have one every day of our trip. I’ve been to Lisbon and Lagos, I think hiring a car and going with south to that part of the coast (and as was said maybe staying in a little neighbouring town although Lagos is delightful although maybe busy), OR you could go north to Porto (I’ve never been but heard it’s lovely AND it might be cooler?) Either way the coast is beautiful and dramatic and you’d love it I reckon seeing as you love lighthouses and cliffs etc (that’s what the coastline is like!)
Elisabeth
I think we’ll try to do both? But yes, Lagos will likely be crazy this time of year…but there are so many quieter places around, so we’ll start hunting for what’s available. At this point, our biggest issue is going to be finding accommodations. Oops. We waited until fairly last minute to arrange this, but I’m sure it will all work out!
Shelly
How exciting! I never made it to Portugal when I was travelling in Europe. Madrid is lovely but I love the idea of staying in Portugal and not making it as jam packed. Especially with John speaking Portuguese, you can explore more easily.
Elisabeth
Yes, I think just staying in Portugal will be the best route for the type of vacation we’re looking for (relaxed!)…
Now to sort out the where and when for accommodations.
Birchie
How exciting! I hear you on the “cons” of crowds and heat, but this just sounds so exciting!!!
Elisabeth
To be fair, I suppose I can look at heat and crowds as part of the adventure?
San
With all the travel perks you get through John, I don’t know why you’re even thinking about this. The flights are SO CHEAP…. and if you can go an international destination for that money, even better. It’ll be a great experience!
Elisabeth
I know – why were we “thinking” about it?! It is booked.
Tobia | craftaliciousme
I already know you go to Portugal so congrats on that. The plane tickets are insanely cheap. Amazing.
I bet the heat and crowds are a bit exhausting already just thinking about it. But I am sure you make the most of it.
As mentioned previously I have only been to the island of Madeira.
Also I didn’t know your husband was born in Portugal. So fun.
Elisabeth
We are going! And I spent a chunk of last evening looking for must-see places. I feel like I’ve narrowed down about a dozen things I really want to see/do and the rest of the time should be relatively relaxed. It’s nice to be visiting a small country. I think we’ll be able to see a lot of really great things of so much variety (castles, beaches, caves, lighthouses) etc.