One of the perks of keeping a One Line A Day Journal is the regular prompts about what we were doing this day in years gone by.
Apparently, two years ago, we had just wrapped up a 36-hour tour of Prince Edward Island. Of course my trip recaps were obliterated by the internet, but I want to have them close at hand for the next time we venture to the island; a repost is in order!
It’s a bit sad that we live a mere three hours away from this beautiful province and hadn’t visited for A DECADE. We have good excuses – we tend to spend summer vacation time at my parent’s lakeside home in New Brunswick, which is delightful.
Also, Prince Edward Island (PEI) is a province utterly transformed in the summer; there are people everywhere. It’s hard – and expensive – to find accommodations. We also aren’t the type of family who enjoys spending half an hour searching for parking spaces at a crowded beach or amusement park. (I mean, does anyone enjoy that? I guess it would be more accurate to say we are the type of family that actively avoids crowded beaches and amusement parks.)
And, perhaps most importantly, we love exploring our home province of Nova Scotia (see here for some highlights), which is stunning in the summer.
But in April 2022, at the last minute, we decided to go to PEI. There are no shortage of accommodations in the off-season (as busy as PEI gets in the summer, it is “dead” in the winter/spring).
THE DRIVE
We hoped to be on the road by 7 am, but the kids were awake early enough that we were driving by 6:45 am. It’s always a great (and rare) feeling to be ahead of schedule.
I tasked A (then 11) with making some PB&J sandwiches for the car, and the kids ate these for breakfast en route.
Side note regarding food for the trip. Between frugality and finding food stops to be very time-consuming, we prefer to travel with items from home. We packed some ham and cheese sandwiches for the day (and brought jars of PB&J + mini brioche buns to make more sandwiches if needed), hard-boiled eggs, apples, oat muffins, carrot sticks, and a big jug of water, so we didn’t stop to eat until supper time; on Day 2 we had breakfast included at the hotel and then just ate remaining picnic items the rest of the day).
THE BRIDGE
The Confederation Bridge links PEI to the mainland of New Brunswick and is the world’s longest bridge that crosses ice-covered waters. At 12.9 km, it’s long by any standard!
CAPE EGMONT
Our first stop was Cape Egmont. The dirt road leading down to this lighthouse was treacherous (muddy and deeply rutted), but we made it in – and out – in one piece.
Of the 7 (!!) lighthouses we visited on this trip, we agreed this was the prettiest. It would be even nicer in the summer with green grass standing out in contrast against the red cliffs.
WEST POINT LIGHTHOUSE
West Point is the “poster” child of lighthouses for the island. It actually has a (run-down) motel associated with the lighthouse, so you can book accommodations that attach to the lighthouse. It was pretty and tall, but we didn’t stick around too long and the beachfront was nothing spectacular.
CEDAR DUNES PROVINCIAL PARK
When we left West Point Lighthouse, we drove by Cedar Dunes Provincial Park. The kids spotted playground equipment and we made an impromptu stop. I did a 1 km walk while they played (2022 being the year I walked at least 1 km daily), and then we grabbed lunch from our picnic bag before heading off to the northern tip of the island.
NORTH CAPE LIGHTHOUSE
While PEI is small, it felt like North Cape was a long trek into the middle of nowhere. It is the northernmost tip of the island and I was shocked by how windy it was; when we discovered the Wind Energy Institute of Canada is located here…it made a lot of sense. (There were wind farms everywhere and they have giant turbine pieces on display.)
North Cape is also home to the longest natural rock reef in North America (who knew?), extending almost two kilometers offshore from the cliffs. On a warmer day we might have explored the beach and looked for all the promised sea life, but the kids and I quickly admitted we were freezing and headed back to the car…where I realized my keys were in the trunk – not a good place for keys when a car is locked – and John was nowhere to be found.
I was feeling bummed. It was cold and windy. The lighthouse was rather industrial and run-down. And it had been a long drive. I called John to ask him to come to unlock the car and he said he’d be right back, but we might want to consider coming to see the rock formation he had discovered on the beach.
I convinced the kids to give this chilly cape one last shot and it ended up being a moment when waiting just a bit longer paid dividends. These rock formations were a main highlight from our trip!
This looks like a relatively boring access point to the beach and then BAM!
Pictures don’t do this space justice. The kids had a great time playing in the smaller caves and cutouts and there was a small cove/tiny beach on the other side of the formation that was protected from the wind. It was a hidden oasis I suspect few people visiting the area discover!
THUNDER COVE
Thunder Cove has one of the best spots for viewing the iconic red sandstone cliffs of PEI, though we were warned in advance to CHECK THE TIDES.
So we CHECKED THE TIDES and opted to visit 4 hours after high tide. We walked down the beach to reach the most famous landmark – the Teacup formation.
Unfortunately, we hit a roadblock in the form of some very cold water and an incomplete tide. The water was still too high to get around the bend to view the teacup formation. Whomp, whomp. Apparently it is important to visit at the absolute lowest tide!
We ended up finding an alternate route that left us quite muddy (note to self: allowing A to wear light blue jeans was a mistake), but the mess was worth it! Such a pretty formation.
Unfortunately, a hurricane later that same year destroyed this rock structure. *Sob*
NEW LONDON LIGHTHOUSE
The New London Lighthouse was probably my favourite lighthouse, largely due to nostalgia.
When I looked up filming locations from the Anne of Green Gables films, most spots were actually in Ontario – a bit of a letdown for a movie all about Prince Edward Island. But one lighthouse scene was filmed on the island and happened to be smack dab in the middle of our return route to Charlottetown, so we made a quick stop.
Again, this would be nicer in the summer with tall green grass, but we tried to take a picture that highlighted the cultural significance of the location and I would definitely consider coming back here for a longer visit on a warmer day as it was a lovely spot.
LUCY MAUD MONTGOMERY’S BIRTHPLACE
Our final tourist stop was Lucy Maud Montgomery’s birthplace, which we happened upon by accident. John saw a sign out of the corner of his eye, and we made a hasty turn into the empty (everything. is. empty. in. the. offseason!) parking lot so I could take a look around.
And here, around a certain corner, is a certain small, yellowish-brown house, close to the road, that I always look at with a kind of fascination, for it is the house where my father and mother lived after their marriage, and where I was born and spent the first year of my life. The years have passed on and each succeeding one has left the little brown house something shabbier than before, but its enchantment has never faded in my eyes. I always look for it with the same eager interest when I turn the corner.
L. M. Montgomery’s Journal, December 31, 1898
It’s no longer brown but reading her quote on the placard gave me goosebumps!
CHARLOTTETOWN
I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve used Gretchen Rubin’s line about: The things that go wrong often make the best memories. I got another chance during this trip.
We were tired after a long day and when we confidently pulled up to the front entrance of our hotel, you could practically hear angels singing. Come to find out we were trying to check in to the WRONG hotel. There were two hotels with the same name in Charlottetown, which I didn’t realize when I keyed our destination into the GPS. It ended up costing us about 20 minutes and I was very grumpy about my mistake.
But, sometimes, the things that go wrong do make good memories and the kids seem to think it’s both thrilling and hilarious that I made this mistake and it has become part of our family story about the trip.
And that’s a wrap on Day One in Prince Edward Island. I know there many loyal Anne of Green Gables fans out there, but I feel like PEI is an obscure travel destination – has anyone reading here ever visited PEI?
Jenny
Ha, the kids look so young!!! This excursion definitely deserves a repost. These photos are beautiful- I would definitely rather go in April, than summer when it’s crowded. I don’t miss the green grass! I don’t mind crowded amusement parks so much, but natural areas really are ruined with too many people. Looking forward to Day #2…
Elisabeth
I know! It has only been two years, but wow…a lot changes in that amount of time.
Birchie
Ooooooh…I want to go so badly. I’m taking note of your tip to come off season.
I feel the same as you about not stopping for food on the road. Too time consuming, too expensive, too much of a likelihood of not finding anywhere special to eat and getting a mediocre meal. If it’s a family trip we’ll make sandwiches and I’ll bring something special like a batch of muffins or cookies. For my solo trips I’ll make a sandwich for the first day and then I have a supply of protein bars in the car for lunches after that.
Elisabeth
When I was adding pictures back into this post I was thinking of you Birchie! You would love it!! It’s HIGHLY bikeable, and there are so many lighthouses. There is a ferry option for getting from mainland Nova Scotia to the island, as well.
Yes to all your food points! Especially the time. Stopping to eat takes a lot of time! I’d rather picnic somewhere along the way and be able to eat exactly when – and where – I want…
NGS
I listen to a podcast called Books Unbound and it has two hosts, young Canadian women who are so enthusiastic about books that I listen to their podcast mostly to feel their sheer excitement at life. (Also, one of them referred to getting out of bed at 9:30am as super early and I realized that maybe they’re just excited because they get more sleep than I do.) ANYWAY. I bring this up because one of them lives in BC and the other one lives in Nova Scotia and the one who lives in NS is always talking about her goal to visit all the bookshops in NS and she was recently talking about the town where you live and it made me think of you. Also, she has visited LMM’s birthplace and so this whole post made me think that you and this enthusiastic young woman would probably get along.
Elisabeth
I’d never heard of this podcast! As you know, my podcast game is pretty lame, but that’s so interesting you listen to a podcast that includes a Nova Scotian producer…and that she’s visiting bookshops all over this fair province <3 I wouldn't call myself enthusiastic, but maybe that's because I sleep in until 9:30 am perhaps once a year!
Sadly, our main bookstore closed years ago - Rainbow's End...I actually went to their storefront today which is a funky market - but we do have a great used bookstore (and a second...less "great" one but it also sells collectibles and comics and Pokemon cards so I suspect it does quite well for itself).
Diane
I think this original post was one of the first posts of yours that I ever read or commented on!
We went to PEI/Nova Scotia in 2017. My father had always wanted to drive across the Confederation Bridge- it had been built after my parents moved away from Cape Breton Island, and he was super excited when it first opened even though they were living in Ontario by then. I am a little salty about the whole thing because I wanted to drive the bridge one way and take the ferry back- the plan was for us to take my parents over the bridge and my brother (who was in a separate rental car with his family) to drive my dad back. But my brother’s family is somewhat… lax with time, and we ended up driving both ways while my brother got to take the ferry. Oh well.
We stayed at the far eastern end of PEI- it was beautiful, but I don’t think we were prepared for how remote it would feel.
I think I look at a map of the Atlantic provinces and they feel very cozy and all packed together, but actually things are quite far apart.
10/10 would go back, though!
Elisabeth
That’s so interesting this post brings our online relationship full circle!
I’ve only ever taken the ferry once, but for so many years it was the only access to the island. Crazy! You’ll just need to make it back to PEI and take the ferry 🙂 An excuse for return travel.
PEI is the coziest of the provinces, but even still it’s a lot of driving in a day!
Kate
Oh my goodness, as an Anne of Green Gables aficionado (why yes, Victoria’s middle name is partially an homage to Anne-with-an-e!), I was so excited to read this post! And also very glad for future travel plans to learn that most of the movies were filmed in Ontario because I *definitely* would have been expecting to see more familiar landscapes from the movies. Absolutely gorgeous even with the mud and brown grass. Those cave and rock formations are so cool!
Also I can’t believe how much younger your kids look just 2 years ago. L especially looks like such a little boy. Time is a thief!!
Elisabeth
Awww! I didn’t realize her middle name was connected to that Anne!
It really is incredible to look back at pictures from even last year. Their faces and bodies and…everything…change SO MUCH. I mostly don’t miss the little years, but the pictures do break my heart a little. Like, two years ago I could pick L up. Now? He’s so long, it’s practically like trying to wrangle a giraffe.
ccr in MA
Oh, I love PEI! My mother and I first went when I was in high school, in 1985, and have been back … umm, four more times? Five? Offhand, I’m not actually sure! Obviously we both love it. We did a lot of the Anne tourism sites, including the birthplace, Green Gables, and many more, as well as just enjoying all the red dirt roads. It’s so beautiful, I would happily go again, though the travel would probably be too much for my mother now.
Oh, and one year we did both the North Cape and the East Point lighthouses, and got certificates for it! Traveller’s Award, they say. Pretty fun to look back on.
Elisabeth
Stop the presses – where is our award! I did not know these things existed and now I want one!
PEI really is lovely and I can’t believe you’ve been 5 times. I think I’ve only been 6-7 and it’s so close! You’re inspiring to make it back more frequently.
It’s a beautiful place to visit – lots of scope for the imagination 🙂
Michelle G.
I’ve never been to PEI, but I’ve always wanted to go see it—of course, because of Anne! I loved seeing your photos. I’ll bet it’s so busy during tourist season and much more fun to visit during the off-season. I’d really love to visit all of Eastern Canada.
Elisabeth
The East Coast of Canada is beautiful. I’m especially partial to Nova Scotia, but PEI is stunning – all that coastline. And many, many lighthouses!
Maria
I love PEI! We went when I was a kid and since moving to NB we’ve gone twice. Once was in April (of 2022 also but it was earlier in the month). It was an unexpected and unplanned one day trip. Fun though!
Then in June 2022 we went camping for three days with our oldest’s godparents. It poured almost the whole time there but the last afternoon we had glorious sun and had a blast at the Argyle Shores PP. Got there as the tide was going out and saw incredible sea creatures.
Hopefully we can return soon. We have a goddaughter living there now so lots of excuses to go there!
Elisabeth
That’s so funny we were on the island around the same time in 2022. It is beautiful…and we really should try to get back this summer. So much to do, so little time. Maybe an early September visit? Things will still be green and warm, but the main tourist season is over?
Melissa
This looks so beautiful. It’s so weird thinking that you have your brown grass at the end of winter. All the brown looks like out end of summer, early Autumn grasslands when we’ve had a dry summer. My mother-in-law loves the Anne of Green Gables books and they went to PIL maybe ten years ago.
It’s so much better taking food on a road trip when you have kids with you. We did a two week road trip to Central Australia and borrowed my dads plug in mini fridge and it was fantastic. We mainly made chicken wraps for lunches each day. So much better than stopping somewhere and having to pay for crappy food that the kids don’t eat.
San
I live vicariously through everybody’s travel posts – what a beautiful place, Elisabeth, and stunning pictures (as always). I don’t blame you that you’re trying to avoid the crowds, but this place is definitely worth a visit.
P.S. I thought of you when I flew back from Europe recently when we passed Greenland and then the tip of Canada where you live.
Elisabeth
Aww! Picture me waving from Nova Scotia as your flew past.
I think you’d LOVE PEI, San!
Lisa's Yarns
Funnily enough, PEI just came up this past weekend at my parents’ house. My grandma had a collection of teapots and she would write in permanent market where she got the teapot. The great grandchildren each got to have a teapot from her collection as she had 33 great grandchildren and 34 teapots. One of the ones my niece got was purchased on PEI. My sister didn’t know that our grandparents had gone there. My grandparents traveled super widely in the US and Canada and I remembered them talking about visiting PEI. I know they adored it! They had a huge motorhome so that is how they traveled the US and Canada. I haven’t been to PEI but I would like to some day!! But it is quite the haul from here so probably not something I’d see until my retirement when we have time to bop around and do a super extended trip to Canada.
Elisabeth
I think you’d LOVE PEI. It’s quaint and just feels like a perfect spot – in the off-season at least – for the introverty, outdoorsy, bookish type (which kinda fits us both to a T, right?)!
How special that your grandma collected teapots wherever she went <3